This past weekend my dad and I spent a weekend in Brussels. Brussels is close to my heart, having lived there from about 2009 to 2013. I always used to say that 'Brussels makes a bad first impression, but an amazing second impression'. What I mean by that is that when you explore the areas around central station (or any of the other stations, to be honest), it's easy to get turned off by the brutalist architecture, the busy streets crossing right through the city center (although more and more areas are being made car-free), and the dirty stations. However, when you venture into other neighborhoods, the less touristy neighborhoods, Brussels actually is absolutely stunning.
My old neighborhoods of Ixelles and Saint Gilles are one of these neighborhoods. It's one of the areas I'd dare say has some of the most beautiful Art Nouveau and Art Deco buildings, along cosy streets and stately avenues dotted with excellent restaurants, independent shops, and cafes. Leafy parks are all around, and if you spend a bit of time here, you'd know there's a pace to life here that's much less stressed and strained than in other places.
So! After meeting my friends and former colleagues at the old office for work, drinks, and dinner on Friday, on Sarturday my dad and I embarked on a self-guided walking tour visiting two special locations on Saturday.
Hôtel Solvay
First up: Hôtel Solvay. Designed by Horta and built over 8 years, this private home was only recently opened up to the public (my guess is to fund the renovations) and boy oh boy. My dad described it as 'overwhelming' - which I'd have to agree with. Our visit was limited to 45 minutes only, and no cameras, so I took my sketchbook in and drew like a maniac to the soundtrack of Downton Abbey (picked by the owner, the tour guide said, which I thought was a nice touch). I don’t feel like I did the place justice, because this place was absolutely stunning!
Musée Horta
The home and workshop of the famous art nouveau architect Horta, who has built some of the most impressive art nouveau buildings around. I used to live quite nearby this place, and went many many times, but was incredibly pleased (and by pleased I mean out of my mind excited) that since my last visit, they'd opened up many many more floors and rooms. I spent quite some time drawing there, and although cameras weren't allowed, my dad took some sneaky photos of me at work.
In between, we visited a few of my favorite shops: Schleiper (art supply shop of my dreams), Le Typograph (a great independent shop and printer that make and sell stunning stationary and sketchbooks), and the local second hand shop (which is massive and amazing!)
After a nice dinner at my favorite restaurant La Quincaillerie, located in a former ironmonger’s shop in the Rue du Page in Brussels, designed by a student of Victor Horta, we went back to the hotel to give our legs some rest.
The next morning we squeezed in a walk through the Ter Cameron forest to:
Villa Empain
A very interesting villa in true Art Deco style, built at the beginning of the 1930s by architect Michel Polak at the initiative of Baron Louis Empain. While impressive, we felt less connected to this building. Perhaps simply because the style is a bit more 'stern', but probably also because the building is being used as an exhibition space rather than focused around the architecture/original function of the space. I did very much enjoy learning about the building's history, and many of the textures and materials around the building.
We then hopped on the train back to Utrecht, where I snuggled the boys and fed them Belgian chocolates.
Hope you enjoyed this little tour!
